Gay Amman
The sleepy image of this capital city that is home to 2.1 million people is just that - an image. Underneath that calm skin is a thriving city home to a diverse community of Jordanian’s, Palestinians, and other expats working in an array of political posts from the UN to the American University of Jordan. As such, the city has developed a cosmopolitan atmosphere that has seen the rise of fine dining, decent nightlife, and phenomenal shopping. Because the nation is smaller in size, Amman also acts as a great jumping off point to explore the rest of this brilliant and diverse country with famous attractions such as the Wadi Rum desert, the UNESCO World Heritage Site at Petra, and the many resorts on the Jordanian coast of the Dead Sea. Jordan will capture you in such a way that you just won’t want to leave.
Amman Gay Scene
While homosexuality is legal, there still isn't much of an out and proud gay scene in Amman or the rest of Jordan. At the same time, seeing men holding hands in public is relatively common – it’s a sign of friendship, and many Jordanian men are quite appreciative of male beauty even if they’re not gay, so it may screw up your gaydar!
Even without any established LGBTQ-specific venues, many of the bars and restaurants popular with Amman's large international population of expats are there are some known hangouts for gay locals and visiting tourists.
When to Visit
Even though the Dead Sea has the lowest elevation and is the lowest body of water on the surface of Earth (and therefore a warm climate year-round), Amman which is a few hours north can actually get quite cold. It even snows in Amman during the winter! Temperatures reach over 100 degrees Farhenheit in the summer months, so the shoulder seasons in the Spring and Autumn are usually the best times to visit.
An important religious celebration to keep in mind when planning a trip to Jordan is Ramadan which takes place during the ninth month of the Islamic calendar (usually some time between April and June) and is observed in Muslim countries around the world. That means fasting during dayylight hours, so you may have trouble fiinding restaurants open during those dates.
Gay-Friendly Activities & Attractions
Amman is the starting off point for most tourists to Jordan and while many might skip straight to the Dead Sea or Petra, there are actually plenty of sites to see in Amman, as well as a cosmopolitan city life with Middle Easter flair.
Amman Citadel
Dating back to the Bronze Age, the Amman Citadel is a historical site right in the center of downtown Amman. The L-shaped hill is one of the seven hills that originally made up the ancient town of Amman, and it's possible to visit the historical site to see evidence of early residents from the Neolithic period.
Rainbow Street
Near the center of downtown Amman, and in the historic Jabal Amman area, Rainbow Street is a great shopping destination with a lot of rooftop restaurants, pubs, cafes, and shops. Many expats and tourists visit both during the day and in the evening, and it's a great spot for people-watching.
Gay-Friendly Dining, Bars & Nightlife
Honeslty, there isn't much nightlife in Amman that's popular with tourists other than the pubs and bars that stay open in the evenings. But there's a robust restaurant scene and with late-night dining open, there's plenty of entertainment every night.
Books@Cafe
Partly a restaurant, cafe, bar, and lounge, Books@Cafe is the *it* place in Amman for gay locals, tourists, and expats. With a cozy, comfortable vibe, it's always buzzing with an electric energy and the many locals who frequent the place daily keep it alive with a fun crowd every day. The food at the restaurant is great, and the views are very relaxing. Come for breakfast, lunch, dinner or just a drink!
District
The high-end rooftop bar and restaurant, District, serves contemporary foods in a classically Amman setting. Rooftop views look out over the historic Jabal Amman neighborhood. The hip atmosphere and fine dining options make it a romantic place for a sunset meal. Though their weekend brunches are worth a visit, too.
Safety
Thanks to tremendous support from the reigning Queen of Jordan, homosexual rights - rather than moving backward - are finally at a stable place in the country. As one of the more progressive countries in the Middle East in terms of protections for its LGBT population, Jordan is a relatively easy place to travel as a gay person, but homophobia definitely still exists. While there is not a massive out gay population, there are multiple “gay centric” venues that cater to both the local and international gay community. While discretion should always be used, Jordan remains one of the most tolerant countries in the Middle East.
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